Info and Care

All my knives are currently made in high-carbon steel. The steels I use most commonly at the moment are 26C3, 1084, 52100 and 1095, all of which which are non-stainless, take an extremely keen edge and have excellent edge retention and durability.
 

Due to their high carbon content they require a little more maintenance to prevent corrosion from rust, however over time they will build a beautiful and dynamic protective patina which will both protect and add character to your knife.

 

A patina is the natural reaction of the steel to the acids in the food you are cutting. It is a form of oxidation that is beneficial to the longevity of the blade and actually inhibits the formation of rust. 

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Highly acidic foods will cause this reaction to occur more quickly. As your patina develops, the steel of your knife will darken, grey, and blue. You can allow a patina to develop on its own with usual use or you can force one by applying something acidic to the blade such as a cut onion or lemon, if you wish to make it more uniform. It does not affect the performance of the blade and is purely cosmetic.

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The patina of your knife is unique and holds the life story of your blade and all the things it has been through. 

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Kitchen

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The steels that I currently use most frequently for kitchen knives is 26C3, aka Spicy White. Originally developed for use in both razors and scalpels, it is an extremely 'clean' steel with high carbon and low alloy content with very few impurities. It will take and hold an extremely fine edge for maximum efficiency on the chopping board. 

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Field
 

For my Field knives I use primarily 1095. This well-known steel will take and hold a great edge which also benefits from being easy to maintain on the go, whilst being renowned for it's high toughness for consistent hard use out in the field. 

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Handle Materials

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My knife handles are made of all kinds of materials, ranging from modern synthetic materials like micarta and recycled sea plastics, to 8000 year old petrified woods and things I've salvaged on beaches or dog walks. 

All of my wooden handles are 'stabilised' using thermosetting resin. This process involves removing any moisture present within the wood and replacing it with liquid resin within a vacuum chamber. Once heat is applied, the resin sets hard.

 

The resin fills any voids or air spaces in the wood, making it extremely resistant to dimensional changes as it no longer has the capacity to absorb water, preventing shrinkage, swelling and cracking and resulting in an extremely durable material which still looks and feels exactly like wood but should last a lifetime, with a little care.

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